Editorially Speaking

Editorially Speaking

The New Orleans edit

Part local's guide, part scrapbook.

Editorially Speaking's avatar
Editorially Speaking
May 19, 2026
∙ Paid

My May started in Louisiana visiting my family. The trip was timed so that I could come in for a special crawfish boil, honoring my uncle who passed away last year. It couldn’t have been a better day at my other uncle’s (I have 7 on my dad’s side) house right behind the Fairgrounds during Jazz Fest weekend.

It got me thinking that I haven’t done a city edit of the area I called home until I moved to Texas in 2020!

Much to my surprise, there are many places on my Apple guide that ain’t dere no more, either permanently closed or changed names.

But what’s below is a collection of the mainstays, balancing classic New Orleans establishments and of-the-moment spots. Consider this part local’s guide, part scrapbook.

The New Orleans edit

Stay

Hotel Peter & Paul: I’ll admit I’ve never stayed here (I’d love to), but I’ve been to the Elysian Bar enough times to know this is a gingham-clad gem in the Bywater.

The Barnett: Formerly the Ace Hotel, a place I’ve stayed a few times and in an excellent location. Don’t miss the photo booth!

Hotel Saint Vincent: It feels like a little slice of Austin (and heaven—have you seen the courtyard?) as MML had a hand in restoring this orphanage.

Kimpton Hotel Fontenot: Forgive my cookie cutter chain hotel recommendation, but I stayed here with my day job last year and it wins on the location.

Do

French Quarter: This goes without saying, but you have to take at least one lap, beginning on Decatur and ending with a stroll through the French Market.

Magazine Street: Miles on miles on miles of the best shopping, eating, and uptown scenery.

Audubon Zoo: Lions, tigers, bears, and the swamp monster all ask’d for you!

New Orleans Museum of Art: If you’re in need of culture and air conditioning.

City Park: I think every New Orleans kid’s first roller coaster was the ladybug ride in Carousel Gardens. Alternatively, you could picnic, ride the motorized swans, or for the more adventurous, kayak.

Caesar’s: It took everything in me to not type Harrah’s, but take out a set number of cash and crank the penny slots to your heart’s content.

Good Moves: I loved my Lagree class with Jazz.

Ride a streetcar: It’s such a delightful way to see the stately oaks along St. Charles Avenue, especially close to sunset.

Shop

Pilot and Powell: A stunning curation of special brands like Bernadette, Merlette, and Toteme.

Krewe: A household name for sunnies at this point, with humble beginnings here. I love this pair.

Lionheart Prints: Locally made greeting cards and stationery abound.

Tyler and Tate: A colorful and collected mix of home, clothing, and antiques.

Merchant House: The spot for browsing antiques.

Pied Nu: I like to think of this shop as Pilot and Powell’s casual little sister, carrying everyday brands like Donni, Re/Done, and Guest in Residence.

Joseph: Now that Saks is closing on Canal Street (sniff), this is where you’ll go for your next designer bag purchase.

Marquet Shoppe: From what I see in pictures, this is me in home store form.

Lehka: Breezy linens and things made in India.

Simon of New Orleans: His work is ubiquitous with the city. My dad surprised me with a custom Waste Not, Want Not piece to match what hung in my Mama Dot’s house, and it’s something I’ll treasure forever.

Eat

Cafe du Monde: I didn’t appreciate beignets until I moved away. This is a classic institution that’s worth visiting!

Parkway Poboys: A classic spot for poboys, should you have a hankering for my favorite: fried oyster, dressed, no mayo. Every year they do a Thanksgiving poboy that I’ll brave the line for one day.

Central Grocery: Just know a half muffuletta is more than enough. (And if you miss this during your stay, you can always pick one up at the airport.)

Willa Jean: Their menu has ebbed and flowed through the years, but I’m delighted to see that the biscuits and Milk Money Latte remain. Get those!

Lagniappe Bakehouse: I still think about the sweet potato cheesecake I shared with my cousin here.

Lilly’s Café: Excellent Vietnamese food.

Hansen’s: Get the nectar cream in a souvenir cup.

District Donuts: I remember when this place opened and I used to religiously follow their daily donut flavors. Things have changed (they used to have donut sandwiches that were so good), but it’ll always be a reliable place to go for donuts, burgers, and brunch.

Felix’s: If you’re looking for a poboy, big-as-your-palm Gulf oysters, gumbo, or all three, this is where you want to go.

Café Amelie: A dreamy courtyard with even dreamier shrimp and grits.

Elizabeth’s: Get an order of pig candy for the table.

Brennan’s: You have to get the bananas foster flambéed tableside… or you didn’t go.

The Red Dog Diner: One of those classic, cozy places serving everything from “brunchfast” to crab pasta.

Seaworthy: Can be best described as Clark’s witchy cousin.

Levee Baking Co.: A bakery I’ve loved and visited for almost a decade running that I recommend to everyone for their cookies, tarts, and danishes.

Camellia Grill: The diner that will ruin all other diners for you. Get an omelette and a chocolate freeze.

Barracuda Taco: A Texas-approved taco spot with great branding. (A local artist owns the place.)

Superior Seafood: If you want an elevated New Orleans seafood experience, I highly encourage pulling up a chair at the oyster bar.

Poke Loa: Poke is poke, but this one is a standout because you can order yours with yellowtail!

Saba: I believe all I need to say here is blue crab and corn hummus.

Dat Dog: One alligator sausage dog with all the wacky toppings, please!

Port of Call: If you’re looking for a large, medium rare, and insanely delicious burger (with an equally massive baked potato on the side), a too-sweet adult beverage, and an ambiance with questionable hygiene protocols, I couldn’t recommend this place more.

Turkey and the Wolf: The fried bologna is legendary for a reason.

Reginelli’s Pizza: A local chain with reliably good pizza.

1000 Figs: Been here plenty of times when I “need something fresh.”

Tea at the Windsor Court: I’ve done this a few times for my birthday and it’s such a fun, girly treat.

Drink

Bacchanal Wine: Choose your cheese and wine, then find a spot on their patio to listen to some jazz while they assemble your board and make your pours. Dreamy, right?

The Carousel Bar: It’s become a Christmas tradition to visit the Carousel Bar and enjoy a milk punch. (Rarely do we get a spot at the spinning bar, but it’s still a festive time nonetheless.)

Molly’s at the Market: Spot #1 for a frozen Irish coffee.

Erin Rose: Spot #2 for a frozen Irish coffee. (One is not better than the other, it just depends on what side of the French Quarter you’re on.)

The Sazerac Bar: Walk up and down the lobby of the Roosevelt Hotel, then find your way into this historic watering hole.

Hot Tin: If you’re in need of a view and a drink.

Pat O’Brien’s: A classic patio bar if you’re interested in braving Bourbon Street.

The Columns: The complete opposite vibe along St. Charles Avenue, which is the perfect setting for snacks, drinks, and chit chat.

Bar Pamona: My cousin introduced me to this cute place that also serves brunch, snacks, drinks, coffee, and Jamboree Jam!

Raw Republic: If you, you know, need fiber.

Coffee

HiVolt: Picking up a coffee and a pastry here was my first order of business any time I had a Magazine Street shopping day.

The Orange Couch: I thought this place was the spot in 2016, but if you’re looking for coffee near the Bywater… don’t rule it out, even in 2026.

The Bean Gallery: I worked at a salon and spa marketing agency across the street from here, and their chocolate chip cookies are one of my favorites in the city.

Congregation Coffee: I think their alligator branding is so cute. Plus, the coffee is really good.

Mammoth Espresso: A small and unassuming place, but you can tell (and taste) that they take their coffee seriously.

Nova Espresso: Lucky for me, this was located down the street from David’s dad’s condo. Many memories walking half-asleep over for my morning cup.

French Truck: There’s a few locations sprinkled throughout the city, and it’s a reliably good cup if you need one.

Downloadable New Orleans map

Make your trip easier by downloading this Apple Maps guide of my New Orleans edit, plus a few bonus recs.

Keep reading with a 7-day free trial

Subscribe to Editorially Speaking to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.

Already a paid subscriber? Sign in
© 2026 Jaime Gelpi · Privacy ∙ Terms ∙ Collection notice
Start your SubstackGet the app
Substack is the home for great culture